Pricing is calculated live and the calculator is not answering right now. Call and the shop will price it by hand.
What moves the price
Quantity. Screens are burned once per design, no matter how long the run is. So the setup spreads thinner the more shirts you print. That is the whole reason a bigger run costs less per shirt.
Ink colors. Every color is its own screen and its own pass through the press. Dropping one usually saves more than dropping shirts. A one color print on two hundred shirts is the cheapest real thing in the trade.
Print locations. A front print is one pass. Front and back is two. Names and numbers ride on top in heat applied vinyl, so a forty player roster needs no extra screens.
Garment. A basic tee, a heavier ringspun, a performance fabric and a hooded sweatshirt are different starting costs before any ink is involved.
Work out roughly where you land before you call
You can get close on your own with four answers. Start with your piece count and find the row on the table. Then add for each extra ink color beyond one, because every color is another screen and another pass.
Then add for a second print location, since a back print is a whole separate setup rather than a small extra. Then adjust for the garment: a heavier tee, a performance fabric or a hooded sweatshirt costs more as a blank and that difference passes straight through. That gets you within range of the real number.
What it will not tell you is whether your artwork needs work, which is the one thing that has to be looked at.
Why the price drops fast and then flattens out
A print job carries a pile of cost that happens exactly once: preparing the art, separating the colors, burning a screen for each color, and lining up the press. That pile is the same whether you print thirty shirts or three hundred. Spread across thirty, it dominates your bill.
Spread across three hundred, it nearly disappears and you are mostly paying for garments and ink. That is why the per shirt price falls hard between thirty and a hundred, then flattens. Going from three hundred to four hundred saves you far less per shirt than going from fifty to a hundred did.
If you are close to a break point on the table, it is usually worth ordering up to it.
The cheapest change you can make to a design
Most people trying to cut a quote start by cutting shirts. That is backwards. Dropping one ink color removes a whole screen, a whole setup and a whole pass on the press, and it usually saves more than cutting twenty shirts does.
Most logos can be rebuilt to print in one or two colors and still look like themselves. A single ink broken into dots can imply shading, so a one color design does not have to look plain. Ask what your design costs at two colors and at one before you decide you cannot afford the run.
What is not in the table
The published prices assume a standard cotton tee, sizes small through extra large, with a front print. Sizes above 2XL carry a small upcharge because the blank garment itself costs more, not because of the printing. Names and numbers on individual shirts are priced per piece, since each one is cut separately.
Artwork that has to be rebuilt from a small or blurry image is quoted separately, and you will be told before any of that work happens. Nothing gets added to your total that was not discussed first.
Getting a quote that will not move later
A number changes after the fact for one of two reasons: the count changed, or the artwork turned out to need work nobody looked at yet. Both are avoidable. Send the actual art file with your request rather than describing it, and give a size count you have actually collected rather than an estimate.
A quote built on a real file and a real count is a quote you can take to a committee and not have to explain later.
Work out your own run
Enter your actual quantity, colors, and locations and get a ballpark in about ten seconds.